But let's look back to what was my favorite city on my grand tour: Siem Reap, Cambodia. We left off with my minor setback of a nasty case of conjunctivitis after spending a glorious day out and about in the Angkor Wat complex. For my second full day in Cambodia I took a day off from temples to give my poor eyes a rest from the dust and sun. I spent the day inside at the Angkor National Museum (such a party animal, this one!). The museum was actually really really informative, almost to an overwhelming effect! The various exhibits covered the religious, political, and geographical influences on the architecture of the temple complexes of Cambodia and gave me a great overview of what to look for in terms of differences in architecture and style among each of the Wats. I was an Art History nerd both in high school and college so I highly enjoyed the exhibits and vast amount of historical artifacts on display. I couldn't take pictures but trust me, it was awesome!
After leaving the museum I ate lunch at a quaint and relaxing vegan restaurant that also functions as a fair trade shop, job training center, cooking school, and yoga center. Basically all good things in the world come out of the Peace Cafe in Siem Reap. The food was absolutely delicious and ridiculously cheap ($3.75 for a salad and fresh spring rolls, all made with organic and locally sourced ingredients? YES. PLEASE!) and the atmosphere was, for lack of a better word, very peaceful. I closed out my day by walking around the shops in the center of town, relaxing in the hostel, and catching up on my reading and emails. Oh the exciting life I lead! ;)
My third day in Cambodia was arguably one of my luckiest and most enjoyable days I had on the duration of my trip. I signed up for a group tour of the larger circuit of temples with a local company, one that would take me to the further out temples I mentioned previously as well as Bantey Srei, a temple claimed to be built by women due to its extremely detailed carvings. I stood waiting outside of my hostel promptly at 7:30am and waited for a good while- ignoring the constant thrum of tuk-tuk drivers trying to get me to rent them for the day. The car finally arrived after 8:00am and my driver hopped out, telling me that although I had purchased a group tour it was the slow season and therefore no one else had signed up.
This sounded like a major bummer at first but then I realized I would be getting a private guided tour in an air conditioned CAR (SCORE! Both for my eyes and my heat-weary self!) with a tour guide that had received his Master's degree in Cambodian History. Jackpot!!!
We headed out to the temples with our driver and my awesome guide who told me his life story along the way. And what a story it was! He had grown up in a small village in Cambodia and after finishing school went into the army before becoming a monk and then finally going to school for Cambodian History and teaching in local high schools. What a guy! Extremely smart and knowledgeable about everything and anything having to do with Cambodia.
Our first stop on the grand temple tour was the Pre Rup Temple. We pulled up to the temple and I was quite surprised by the amount of children and people milling about the temple. To the right of the temple itself there was a large tent with a ton of monks and people cooking and with pots and pots of food. I asked my guide what in the world was going on and turns out it was a National Holiday and all the children had the day off school. The monks were awaiting the meals prepared by the people who would in turn get a blessing.
My guide also told me that Cambodia has a ton of national holidays- must be nice!
It was quite noisy with people drumming and playing music and the children playing tag and screaming as children generally do so we quickly headed into the temple where my guide began telling me extensive information about the temple and generally the history of Cambodia. I had no idea that Cambodia used to be HUGE (encompassing most of Laos, Thailand, and Southern Vietnam!) but I did know that over time Cambodia transitioned from being predominantly Hindu to Buddhist. This resulted in major shifts in architecture and temple structure and statues- a lot of Hindu statues were destroyed and replaced with Buddhist carvings and statues. All fascinating stuff!
But on to the temple itself. ;) Just look at it:
After walking around and up to the top of Pre Rup we climbed back in our nicely air conditioned vehicle and drove to our second temple, Ta Som. Ta Som was built in the 12th Century and is similar in style to the Ta Prohm temple (AKA the Tomb Raider temple) in that it has a really spectacular tree growing through the temple:
Our third temple of the day was Preah Kanh, which was probably my favorite temple from the day. We walked up to the main entrance and over the moat (which I mean, anything with a moat is automatically cool right?!), snapping pictures along the way:
*Sidenote*: I went through a lot of pain for the picture above. My guide was really funny in that he always gave me tips on where to stand for the best pictures and he told me to stand in this little dirt patch and shoot in this direction of the temple. Well.....the "dirt patch" turned out to be a giant ant hill. Of red fire ants. I couldn't figure out why my feet were hot and painful and I looked down and my sandals are swarming with fire ants. It was seriously so painful and mind boggling! How can these little demons from Hell incur such fiery wrath in so short of a time?! I truly do suffer for my art *dramatic swoon* ;)
We then walked over to what used to be the Library of the temple, which can be seen on the right in the picture below. As the daughter of a librarian I naturally love books and libraries and besides having to take a photo to capture its sheer beauty I wanted one to show my mom!
The average visitor to the Angkor temples doesn't see Bantey Srei, mostly due to the fact that it's a good 45 minutes outside of town at least. It is out there. But a friend I had met along my travels told me it was not to be missed and it was her favorite temple for its intricate and detailed carvings. The temple is called Bantey Srei by the locals which my guide told me roughly translates to "built by women". The reason for this is that the pink limestone with which the temple is built has some of the most complex and ornate carvings out of any of the temples. They are so detailed that many argue that they could only be created by the dainty hands of women. Therefore, the temple is known as the Lady's Temple, or Bantey Srei.
After driving quite the distance we finally arrived. It took a bit to walk over to the temple itself but once we were there I was immediately struck by how right my friend had been. This place was amazing.
As you can see in the photos the looming presence of the clouds (and the monsoon rain that they would inevitably bring!) cut our visit short a bit. Neither of us wanted to get drenched!
On the way back my guide told me about a giant flood a few years ago at Bantey Srei that destroyed parts of the temple and stranded a bunch of tourists. It was declared an emergency because the flood also knocked out the only bridge into and out of the area and people rode buffalo, canoes, anything they could their hands on in an effort to escape before helicopters were finally sent out to help. How crazy is that?!
Our day came to an end after I was dropped back off in Siem Reap, where I spent the rest of my day enjoying a cup of coffee and lunch at my beloved Sister Srey Cafe, hanging out with fellow travelers in the hostel, and walking around the night market area.
The remainder of my days in Siem Reap passed fairly quickly. The day before I was set to leave I had an unforgettable experience being able to visit my favorite non-profit and the one which originally sparked my interest in Cambodia. I briefly talked about it in my last post but on my final day in Cambodia before I left I had arranged a visit with the AIM staff in Siem Reap. On my visit I met with one of their core team members (who also happened to be from my hometown! Small world!) and we talked for hours about the situation of sex trafficking in this region and the transformative and restorative work AIM is doing to fight the evils of this issue from all sides. The level of secrecy that the organization has to maintain meant that I didn't take pictures (or even know what the address was of the various sites we visited) but I had a really great time getting to meet some of the social workers, chatting to the staff members, and learning everything I could about the sex-trafficking situation in Cambodia. It was extremely rewarding and eye-opening and I plan on visiting their main facilities when I go back to Cambodia someday. Because I do plan on going back. ;) If you want to donate to an incredibly amazing cause that does SO much good please consider visiting http://agapewebsite.org/. There are a number of ways to get involved and spread the word and every little bit helps!
Cambodia- you stole my heart. From the warmth of the people, the beauty of the country, the rich history of the temples I couldn't stop my heart from smiling the entire time I was there. Siem Reap is a really special place for me and one that I am already making plans to re-visit. I highly recommend for everyone to visit Cambodia at least once in their life, I promise it is well well worth it. ;)
Thanks for reading and until next time-
Happy Travels!
-Freckles